The Epic 4-Day Summer Guide to Iceland (2024)

The Entrance to the Blue Lagoon's Retreat Spa

Beginning with a delicious lunch set in the spa restaurant overlooking the lagoon, I chose a light miso soup and soft tuna tartar with ponzu, sesame and avocado, alongside a freshly squeezed spinach, banana, mango and ginger juice. It was the perfect meal before the real start to the Retreat Spa experience.

Lunch at the Retreat Spa restaurant

The private lagoons and relaxation areas provide an exclusive, intimate experience, and the muted, soft lighting and modern, elegant furnishings exude sophistication and tranquillity. The overall aesthetic is a perfect fusion of contemporary design and raw Icelandic beauty.

The Blue Lagoon was first discovered in the early 1980s when local residents began to bathe in the warm blue reservoir that had formed in the lava field beside the Svartsengi Resource Park—a geothermal power plant. Engineers at the facility had expected the water to seep through the lava and return to the earth’s volcanic aquifers. However, owing to the fluid's high concentration of silica, proper drainage did not occur and a beautiful body of water took shape.

The Blue Lagoon Ritual takes part after enjoying the sauna, steam room and of course, cold plunge! The ritual involves progressing through different areas of the volcanic treatment room, in which you try each of the lagoon’s bioactive resources: silica, algae, and minerals, leaving your skin feeling brand new. My skin felt soft and remained in this condition throughout my time in Iceland, which was surprising given the cold temperatures it was exposed to daily.

Within the Blue Lagoon Spa Retreat there are a number of indoor and outdoor relaxation rooms

After spending the whole afternoon at the Retreat Spa (although wishing I could stay longer!) I changed in the comfortable changing rooms, filled with all amenities one could possibly need, and set off to downtown Reykjavik to check into the hotel, the Exeter Hotel.

Entrance to the Exeter Hotel

The Exeter Hotel is situated in prime downtown Reykjavik, by the old harbour. There are many bars, restaurants, quaint stores and beautiful streets surrounding the hotel. You feel like a real local walking around a very artistic area of the city.

Views from the suites at the Exeter Hotel overlooking the harbour

The hotel itself is perfect for a young couple who want a feel of luxury and a great base whilst exploring Iceland. The rooms are spacious and modern and the hotel hosts a buzzing bar, that is filled with locals and travellers every evening. There is also a doughnut and bagel shop in the lobby, which provided the perfect lunches on each of the travel days.

The bedrooms at the Exeter Hotel are sleek and modern in design.

Hallgrímskirkja Church

Views along the drive to Snaefellsnes Peninsula

Our first stop was to Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall, where the green moss-covered mountains and waterfalls facing the sea felt like a film set. It's no surprise that certain scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed here. Continuing past the famous Mount Kirkjufell, I reached the town of Ólafsvík for a light lunch before the whale-watching tour.

Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall and Mount Kirkjufell

I joined Láki Tours, which provided an excellent service. Each guest received an oversized waterproof suit for the boat tour, which had indoor and outdoor seating. The guides made the experience interactive, offering tips on spotting whales by observing bird activity and after an hour at sea, we spotted a pod of orcas.

Puffins dived into the sea to feed on the same fish as the orcas

Whales are legally still allowed to be hunted in Iceland

Views from the top of Skogafoss Waterfall

With a full stomach, I set off to the South Coast. My first stop was Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi, two epic waterfalls. One is nestled in a cave you can walk into, and the other cascades in front of a rock, with a trail leading behind it (beware, you will get wet!). One of the perks of visiting Iceland's landscapes and waterfalls is the absence of heavy regulations and tourist stands, allowing for a more natural and immersive experience. In summer, there are no queues at any of the sites.

Gljúfrabúi waterfall

The drive along the South Coast is spectacular, showcasing Iceland’s unique microclimate. In minutes, you can transition from a grey, rainy spot to an area bathed in sunshine with green rolling hills ahead.

Seljalandsfoss waterfall

Next, I stopped at Skogafoss Waterfall, arguably the most impressive in the region. With a width of 25 meters and a 60-meter drop, you can hike to the top and then descend to the base, where you'll be splashed by the crashing water. The scenery around Skogafoss is magnificent, with the sun illuminating the lush green mountains surrounding the falls.

Skogafoss Waterfall

Just 15 minutes away, you are transported to a completely different landscape at Sólheimajökull Glacier. The retreat of the glacier is evident, with small icebergs floating in the water at its base but there are also boards showing how much the Glacier has melted over the last 50 years with comparison images. You can walk right up to the water, and there are even trails on the glacier.

Sólheimajökull Glacier

Eager to reach the next stop, I arrived at the renowned Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach, the final destination of the South Coast Tour. The beach’s black sand formed over a century ago when the Katla volcano erupted, and hot lava met the icy waters of the North Atlantic, creating black rock that eventually eroded into sand stretching for miles along the coastline. Even on a grey day, the striking combination of black sand, dramatic rock formations, and crashing waves is breathtaking. The towering sea stacks and basalt columns, formed by cooled lava, are a major draw. These columns, resembling man-made structures, stack together to create a pathway into a large cave, evoking scenes from a Disney book, where the villain resides in his lair.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

On a trip to Iceland, I highly recommend spending at least one night in a remote area outside Reykjavik. I chose Hotel Rangá, located south of Reykjavik. Which served as an ideal starting point for our journey the following day to head back to Reykjavik. Turning into the long road, under the arch with the hotel’s name, I was greeted by expansive open land and a large wooden house in the distance.

Hotel Rangá Exterior

Upon arrival, I was shown to the Master Suite, featuring a spacious lounge, double bathroom, and a bath in the bedroom overlooking the surrounding mountains and fields. The room was designed in a charming, old-fashioned American log cabin style, with wooden walls and cream and brown furniture, perfectly in line with its environment. The room also included access to an outside jacuzzi available at all hours. After settling in, I enjoyed a game of backgammon with a cup of tea in the upstairs sitting area while admiring the natural surroundings.

The Royal Master Suite at Hotel Rangá

Dinner at the hotel's restaurant was exceptional. The tables are set in a glass room with panoramic views of Iceland’s’ volcanoes and rolling hills ahead. I started with the wild mushroom soup, which was creamy yet light, followed by exquisitely cooked salmon with sweet potato purée, apples, mustard seeds, fried broccoli, granola, and white wine sauce. The salmon was perfectly pink and bursting with balanced flavours of sweet and tangy. With a. sweet tooth like mine, I couldn’t resist trying the chocolate globe filled with mascarpone mousse with cappuccino ice cream and caramel sauce for dessert. Although rather full by the end of the meal, it was worth every bite.

The hotel's glass dining room overlooking Iceland's natural terrain

Sunsets at the jacuzzi under the sunset at Hotel Rangá

Off I set to my first stop of the day: Gullfoss waterfall. I highly recommend not looking up images of the sites you plan to visit in Iceland beforehand. The experience is so much more exhilarating when you don’t know what landscapes you will encounter, and this was certainly the case for Gullfoss. The water flows from the Langjökull glacier, cascading 32 meters in two stages, showcasing nature's raw power. Gullfoss features two distinct drops: the first at 11 meters and the second at 21 meters. The canyon walls on either side soar up to 70 meters, descending into the Gullfossgjúfur canyon. Geologists believe the canyon was formed by glacial outbursts at the start of the last ice age. Walking along the rocks up to the waterfall, feeling the mist and the wind carrying droplets against your face, is an incredible experience.

Gullfoss waterfall

Back in the car for a quick 10-minute drive to the Geysir, this famous hot spring lies in the geothermal area of Haukadalur Valley. Geysir, the largest hot spring, is currently inactive and has not erupted in several years. However, Strokkur, now arguably the country’s most famous hot spring, remains active, shooting vast jets of boiling water 20 to 40 meters high every five to ten minutes. Just a few minutes' walk north of Geysir lies a wealth of fumaroles, releasing steam and gas into the cool Icelandic air.

Strokkur hot spring as it is about to erupt into the air

After watching Strokkur erupt a couple of times, capturing the perfect shot of the water bubbling beneath it before its spectacular eruption, I headed to the final experience of the trip: snorkelling in Silfra. Located in Thingvellir National Park, part of the Golden Circle, Silfra offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to snorkel between the tectonic plates of North America and Europe. This adventure, only possible in the summer months, was perhaps the most thrilling part of the entire trip.

Strokkur erupting

I signed up with DIVE.IS for the snorkelling tour, and their team was exceptional in providing clear instructions and helping us gear up in multiple layers before entering the water. As you descend the steps into the water, you are encased in skin-tight equipment, leaving only your face and hands (though gloved) exposed to the freezing temperatures. The glacial water is devoid of animals due to its lack of minerals, but it offers breathtaking views of naturally formed rocks and the precise separation between the tectonic plates. The crystal-clear water is so pristine that you sometimes forget you're underwater, until a little trickle of water reminds you of your extraordinary surroundings.

Snorkelling in Silfra

Swimming through Silfra is a spectacular experience, and the instructors keep you calm throughout the adventure. It was the perfect way to conclude my trip to Iceland, fully immersed in its nature. The best part was emerging from the dry suit completely dry!

Whilst there are no animals beneath the water, there is plenty of colourful seaweed, including a bright green variety known as 'troll hair'

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